The Janiculum, Rome’s eighth hill, is a place where history and magic intertwine. From the ancient god Janus to modern-day rituals, this iconic spot offers a truly unforgettable experience.

The Eighth Hill of Rome

Though not part of Rome’s famous seven hills, the Janiculum is still a hill. For many, it’s considered the city’s unofficial eighth. It sits between the Vatican and the neighborhoods of Monteverde, home to left-leaning upper-middle-class families, and Trastevere, known for its lively Saturday night scene.

Historically, the Janiculum served as a defensive position. It protected the city from rivals like the Sabines and Etruscans, who fought with the Romans for control over the Tiber River.

In more recent history, the hill saw action during the battle for Italian unification in 1849. Garibaldi’s troops fought fiercely against the French forces here. Though outnumbered and ultimately defeated, the Italians displayed great resilience.

The Janiculum Hill in Rome

This is why there’s a statue of Garibaldi in the square in front of Belvedere and why the so-called Passeggiata is lined with busts of Garibaldi’s comrades.

Today, people visit the Janiculum to admire the city’s skyline, domes, bell towers, rooftops, and terraces. And domes… did we mention domes? Since the Janiculum is open all day, every day, you can go anytime you like. The best time to visit is probably at sunset, when the Roman sky glows with shades of pink, fuchsia, and orange, transporting you to a mystical ancient past or a futuristic elsewhere, depending on your perspective.

From the Step to the “Talking Point”

There is a step on Via della Lungara. If you haven’t climbed it, you are not a Roman or a true Trasteverino.

The saying refers to a stop at the entrance of Regina Coeli prison. This is Rome’s oldest prison, located in Trastevere, and its name literally means the Queen of Heaven. To enter, one must step up or climb three steps. You can’t claim to be an honest Roman if you haven’t.
From there, it’s a fifteen-minute walk to the Janiculum. Simply take Via delle Mantellate and keep climbing until you reach paradise — or something close to it.
But it’s not just the few blocks that connect the prison to the viewpoint. It’s also the voices. Tradition has it that family members of inmates go to the terrace of the Janiculum, particularly near the lighthouse, to communicate with their loved ones.
How? By shouting. They use the natural acoustics of the hill. Inmates in the corner cells pass the messages to neighboring cells. This practice dates back to the Fascist era. Many partisans used it to send information in and out of the prison.

The Janiculum Hill in Rome

Over time, authorities have tolerated using the Janiculum as a “talking point.” They allow it as long as the communication is urgent. Of course, what counts as urgent might be as subjective as beauty.
In Antonio Manzini’s book Era di Maggio (later adapted into the Rocco Schiavone series), he describes a conversation between a woman on the Janiculum and a man in prison.
This tradition has also appeared in films. For example, in Manolesta with Tomas Milian, School of Thieves with Lino Banfi, and The Star Witness with Monica Vitti and Ugo Tognazzi.
For a while, it even created a new job. The “shouter” was someone with a powerful voice who would offer to yell messages to the prisoners.
While the tradition may be less common today, it still makes you think. We walk around glued to our smartphones, sometimes risking being hit by a car. But some people don’t have access to WhatsApp, Instagram, or Facebook. They can’t hear from their loved ones whenever they want. Thankfully, there’s still the Janiculum.

Roman High Noon

Church bells have always told the time, though not always in the most “Swiss” way — sometimes ringing early or late. That’s why, on December 1st, 1847, Pope Pius IX decided that, at least in Rome, there should be an official time. No more relying on bells, but instead a single cannon shot. Initially positioned at Castel Sant’Angelo and later moved to Monte Mario, in 1904, the time-signaling cannon found its home on the Janiculum, just below the Belvedere.

Though interrupted during World War II, this practice continues today (though the cannon did misfire a couple of times, in 2009 and 2020). Every day at precisely 12 o’clock, three soldiers load a blank round into a howitzer and fire it in front of curious crowds of tourists. Perhaps there’s no real need to mark the hour with a cannon shot in the digital age. Still, we’ve already established that the Janiculum is a place of unusual traditions.

The Janiculum Hill in Rome

The Small Temple, the Fountain, and the Bamboo

There are other notable landmarks at the top of the Janiculum besides the viewpoint and the lighthouse.

First, there’s the Church of San Pietro in Montorio, built in the 15th century when it was believed that the hill was the site of Saint Peter’s crucifixion, though ecclesiastical experts later debunked this. The highlight of the church is the Tempietto, a small circular temple designed by Bramante, embodying the essence of the Renaissance.

The Janiculum Hill in Rome

On the slopes of the hill is the Botanical Garden of Rome, whose entrance is at the foot of the mountain near Trastevere. Once the garden of Emperor Septimius Severus, then Queen Christina of Sweden, and later the Corsini family, the garden was redesigned by architect Ferdinando Fuga in the 18th century. Today, it boasts a perfect harmony between architecture (including an old greenhouse, a monumental staircase, and two fountains) and plant species (around 2,500). Immersing yourself in the bamboo forest or the cherry blossoms of the Japanese Garden — in bloom in spring — can be a visually and spiritually refreshing experience, especially if you plan to dive into the lively atmosphere of Trastevere afterward.

The Janiculum Hill in Rome

Nearby is the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, which resembles the Trevi Fountain but is more modest in size and decoration. Its dramatic presence is undeniable, inspiring both singers and filmmakers. When Antonello Venditti sings Roma Capoccia, specifically the line How beautiful you are, Rome, in the evening, when the moon reflects in the big fountain, he’s referring to this fountain. Paolo Sorrentino also used it as a backdrop in The Great Beauty, where a tourist faints after photographing the Janiculum’s panorama, perhaps overwhelmed by its beauty. 

The Janiculum Hill in Rome
You can visit these iconic sites through our Dolce Vita tour!

The Home of the God Janus

The Janiculum was, first and foremost — as its name suggests — sacred to Janus. It was an ancient deity of Lazio, often depicted with two faces: one looking to the past, the other to the future. The term “Ianus” was used by the ancient Romans to refer to arches or architectural elements used to connect two places. Unsurprisingly, this person is so fond of communication routes and deified structures that facilitate communication. Janus thus became the god of physical passages, and it’s no coincidence that the hill symbolizing a gateway to the outside of the city was dedicated to him.

In addition to ruling over space, Janus took on the role of overseeing time. As the god of beginnings, he marked the start and end of every natural and human cycle with his all-seeing gaze. It’s no coincidence that the Janiculum still marks the city’s time and bridges the divide between those inside the prison and those outside. Perhaps Janus continues to watch over and guide us even today.

A Sweet Ending… and a Supplì

Ready to refuel after your adventure? Trastevere is packed with delicious spots to grab a bite. Here are a few local favorites:

  • Bar San Calisto: This classic bar has been around since the 1960s, offering a no-frills, authentic Italian experience. Grab a drink and mingle with the locals at the plastic tables.

  • La Renella: Craving pizza? This bakery serves up mouthwatering slices in a variety of flavors, from traditional to adventurous. Order a mix and enjoy it with a side of Italian charm.

  • “Ma che siete venuti a fà?”: If you’re a beer lover, this place is a must-visit. With a seemingly endless selection of craft beers, you’ll be hard-pressed to choose just one.

  • Supplì Roma: Don’t miss out on the iconic Roman street food, supplì! This spot offers a variety of fillings, including classic flavors like amatriciana and cacio e pepe. Grab a few to go and enjoy them while strolling the streets.