Trastevere: What to See in the Neighborhood that Embodies the Spirit of Rome

When exploring Trastevere, the neighborhood that best captures the popular spirit of Rome, begin with a practical tip: cross Ponte Garibaldi. This route offers a stunning view of the Tiber Island and, more importantly, allows you to pay homage to the Guardian spirit of this area.

We’re talking about the poet Giuseppe Gioachino Belli, the poet whose monument welcomes visitors to the neighborhood. When visiting this part of Rome, closely tied to the city’s history and traditions, it’s wise to start here because no one has captured its essence as Belli did with his sonnets and biting spirit. After paying this preliminary homage to its greatest bard, we take you on a journey to discover the kingdom of the most authentic Roman spirit.

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Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere: The Sacred Heart of Trastevere

With its cobblestone streets, ochre-colored buildings, ivy-covered facades, and bohemian atmosphere, Trastevere in Rome is one of the capital’s most lively and trendy places. However, it doesn’t have trendy bars and cafes. Here, you’ll find monuments and architectural works that rival what you’ll see elsewhere in the city. Foremost among them is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. This dazzling basilica, likely the oldest in Rome, honors the Virgin Mary. Constructed in the early 3rd century, it occupies the site where, as legend has it, a miraculous spring of mineral oil once flowed. Visiting this sacred place is not just a sightseeing activity, but a chance to experience the reverence and awe that this historical site inspires.

Its current Romanesque appearance primarily results from a 12th-century renovation.
A beautiful medieval mosaic adorns the church’s facade, depicting the Madonna nursing the Infant Jesus, surrounded by ten women holding lamps. Inside, the 12th-century gold-backed mosaics in the apse draw attention: observe the dazzling depiction of Christ with his mother, surrounded by several saints and, on the far left, by Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church. The 24 Roman columns, some sourced from the Baths of Caracalla, are imposing, as are the fragments of Roman reliefs that form a chaotic mosaic in the entrance. Also noteworthy is the gilded coffered ceiling, designed in 1617 by Domenichino. To the right of the altar, next to the twisted Paschal candlestick, the inscription ‘Fons Olei’ marks the spot where the miraculous spring of mineral oil flowed.

Villa Farnesina: Renaissance Purity

Magnificent frescoes entirely cover the halls of this splendid Renaissance villa. Raphael and his students created the paintings in the Loggia of Psyche and the Loggia of Galatea, both on the ground floor. Baldassarre Peruzzi’s dazzling frescoes in the Hall of Perspectives on the first floor create the illusionistic perspective of a colonnade opening onto a view of 16th-century Rome.

Tempietto del Bramante and Church of San Pietro in Montorio

Considered one of the first buildings in pure Renaissance style, the sublime Tempietto del Bramante (1508) is a genuine surprise. Situated in the courtyard of the Church of San Pietro in Montorio, it marks the location where, according to medieval legend, Saint Peter was crucified. Small in size but with perfect forms and proportions, the tempietto adheres to many of the canons of classical architecture and beautifully synthesizes the spirit of the Renaissance.

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Shopping: Style, Flavors, and the Tradition of Porta Portese

As always in Rome, the sacred and the profane coexist harmoniously. So, after dedicating the necessary time to visiting the neighborhood’s monuments, it’s time to do some shopping because, in Trastevere, even shopping is an art form, especially regarding food. An excellent reference point is the Antica Caciara Trasteverina: the fresh ricotta from this century-old shop is highly appreciated and usually sells out by lunchtime. If you arrive late, console yourself with the irresistible baked ricotta or savor a slice of the famous DOP Pecorino Romano with the black rind and a piece of guanciale, ready to be fried up for a perfect carbonara.

Speaking of shopping, but also diving into the neighborhood’s history and tradition, a must-visit is the gigantic flea market of Porta Portese. It occurs on Sunday mornings, with thousands of stalls offering everything from rare books and bicycles to Peruvian ponchos and off-brand cell phones. It’s incredibly crowded and fun, but keep your wallet safe and be prepared to haggle for any treasures you might find amid the junk.

An Evening in Trastevere: When Rome Welcomes You to the Table

Charming alleys, lively squares, and a vibrant atmosphere are all Trastevere, especially after sunset. Tourists love it, but it’s also a favorite among Romans, who flock here in droves, especially on warm summer evenings when the streets fill with vendor stalls. The clientele of bars and pubs spill out onto the sidewalks. After all, Trastevere is present in restaurants and bars, which is one of its most distinctive and defining features. The evening atmosphere of Trastevere is a unique charm that you must experience to truly understand the spirit of this neighborhood.

Try one of the classic and timeless trattorias, institutions of Rome on par with the Colosseum: Da Teo is always packed with locals enjoying steaming plates of specialties like carbonara, pasta cacio e pepe, and the best artichokes around, whether alla giudia (fried) or alla Romana (braised with garlic and parsley). In keeping with tradition, homemade gnocchi is served only on Thursdays. Reservations are necessary!

A great alternative is Da Enzo. It has cream-colored walls, checkered tablecloths, and a traditional menu with all the typical Roman dishes—nothing is missing. However, what truly sets this trattoria apart is the attention to the quality of the ingredients used, many of which come from farms in Lazio. Notable are the artichokes alla giudia and the pasta cacio e pepe, among the best in the city.

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